We went up in Deanne's very comfortable SUV with her driver Anton at the wheel. We left about 0830 on the 8th, stopping at Dambulla on the way at the guest house on the A9 for tea on the way. This guest house has been here for years and was recently renovated. Most people use it as a rest stop on the way to places north of Kandy, stopping for a drink or some food. They have 2 or 3 rooms as well. The most expensive is most acceptable with two twin beds, an excellent bathroom, very clean all for only LKR4,000/night.
We arrived in Anuradhapura at about 1230 but did not get to the hotel until an hour later due to a clash of wills between Judith and Anton. They were both sure they knew how to find the place and Anton was too stubborn to stop to ask. Being lost did give us a good look at the new town of Anuradhapura. It is most impressive. Wide streets with ample parking, nice shops, up to the minute medial facilities, great wine shops and clean. The old town, of course, is narrow, congested streets. But there is not much of it left.
Our hotel was the Aryana, a small boutique hotel very close to the Nuwara Wewa. The whole area was lovely and quiet while still being close to everything you want to do in Anuradhapura. The rooms were a bit smaller than the pictures on the web, but they were well appointed. Judith and I shared a room. Even though they brought in a twin bed to go along with the king size bed, we had enough room to move around.
The staff were very obliging, although we had to sort the manager out a bit at first. He had not read my emails very carefully, so lunch was not ready and there was a mix up with Anton's room, but we soon spruced him up.
They only opened in February of this year, so everything was brand new and well built. Of course, there had to be a few Sri Lankan construction features thrown in. For example, the light switch was behind the door, so you had to come into the room and grope around in the dark to find it. The hot and cold water was reversed in the shower and Deanne's shower would not drain. Not too bad by Sri Lankan standards.
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| The dining area with the pool in front. The nicest pool I have ever been in. No tiles, but stone. I swam both mornings we were there. |
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| The lobby |
After lunch, we headed off to the SOS Children's Village. SOS Children's Villages is the largest independent, non-governmental, nonprofit international development organization headquartered in Innsbruck, Austria. The organization provides humanitarian and developmental assistance to children in need and protects their interests and rights around the world. There are 6 villages in Sri Lanka. Deanne's brother Cedric was the director of the one in Anuradhapura for 30 years.
The village is really an orphanage, but with a very different model. This village consists of 14 homes situated on 5.5 acres given to the SOS by the government. Each home is headed by a mother who is trained and paid to parent up to 10 children. The children grow up in a real home environment with brothers and sisters. Where the children are siblings, they are kept together. The mothers choose the children they want in their homes. There are aunties who serve to relieve the mothers and when the mothers retire, there is a house for them on site so that they are taken care and can become grandmothers to the children.
The homes are large and airy, surrounded with gardens that each household tends as it likes. There is ample outdoor space for the kids to play. There is also a Montessori (read pre-shcool) on the premises along with a vocational training centre that takes children from the village as well as students from the town.
I came loaded with all the spare things I had left from the School of English; posters to hang on the walls, pencils, erasers, pens, crayons, rulers, etc. I was glad to get rid of them and they were very happy to receive them.
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| From left to right: Anton, our driver, the village director, Deanne, Judith |
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| I am standing in for the director |
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| The founder of SOS Children's Villages, an Austrian. He established the organization in 1949. His bust is in front of us above. |
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| One of the houses. |
Judith set the itinerary after having done extensive research. All we had to do was sit back and enjoy.
Here it is:
MORNING Tour...10am to Noon....or earlier if we can do this!
SITES In the NORTHERN SECTOR...called the ABHAYAGIRI COMPLEX ( 2-3 century BC) and the CENTRAL SECTOR called the JETAVANA COMPLEX (276-303 AD).
Site ONE. KUTTAM POKUNA, known as TWIN PONDS.
This features two "non- identical "Monks bathing pools...considered to be archaeologically perfect!
The pools are equipped with a Filtration Basin, and the spouts adorned with beautiful Makkara Gargoyles and Lion's Heads.
The pools have submarine water conduits which feed the main TANK. From this tank a distribution of conduits served the bathing and toilet needs of an estimated 5000 monks including septic tanks .!
This bears testament to the exceptional hydraulic skills of these ancient engineers.
Note the NAGA symbol used on water inlets and outlets.
Site TWO. SAMADHI BUDDHA 3AD.
This statue ,made of dolomite limestone Is one of four seated Buddhas , originally at cardinal points aroind an early Bo Tree shrine.
It depicts the " Serene state of Samadhi"....deep meditation.
The nose is a somewhat incongruously repaired 'nose job"! But nevertheless, a photo of this statue apparently gave some strength to Nehru, during his imprisonment by the British!
Site THREE. ABHAYAGIRI DAGOBA ( STUPA) 2AD.
This brick built structure is the second largest Dagoba on EARTH..at 370 feet high !
Site FOUR. THE MOONSTONE
This is condsidered the finest in the Country, symbolising the transcendence from desire (flames) to "NIBBANA"...the Lotus in the Centre.
Dwarfs support the steps and at the top are two deity Singhalese Lions .
Site FIVE. THUPARAMA DAGOBA.
This is the oldest Dagoba in the Country and is said to contain the Collarbone Relic of Buddha.
It is a vatadage of "paddy heap " design ,with the later addition of surrounding stone built pillars and a conical roof...all very photogenic!!
The apparent bell shape is a direct result of a British restoration carried out in 1862!!
Site SIX & SIX A. JETNAVARAMA DAGOBA -3 to 2 BC and the BUDDHIST RAILINGS.
This is the largest DAGOBA on Earth, with its crystal finial it measures a height of 500 feet, only surpassed by two of the Egyptian pyramids.
It is thought to be the TOMB of an earlier conquering CHOLA KING.
In 9AD, gold plates of Sanskrit writings were found on site during attempts to establish the structure of the foundations...of the tallest brick built structure ever created by man!
In the surrounding precincts are stone structures known as the Buddhist Railings...an early fence design in stone,which looks rather contemporary.
This is close to the DAGOBA and I sincerely hope to find and see this wonderful structure?
BREAK FOR A WELL EARNED LUNCH!! NOON At the latest..wherever we happen to be? And whatever we choose?
AFTERNOON TOUR 2 to 4pm.
MUSEUM and ISURUMUNIYA TEMPLE &GARDENS.
Site 7. ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM
This fine Museum is situated close to the banks of the BASWAKKULAMA Wewa and is housed in the former residency of a British Government Agent, who apparently influenced many unique architectural features of the city at that time.
It was even speculated that Anurhadapura might become the country's Administration Centre of the day?
I hope it may contain some of the fabulous artefacts or even replicas of the riches found on this site during excavations.
One such bronze figurine found, is that of a composite male and female dancing figure, thought to be that of SIVA, the HINDU God in his male-female principle?
Site 8. ISURUMUNIYA ROCK TEMPLE & Carvings in and around the ROYAL PLEASURE GARDENS..3BC
To the southern end of the Royal Pleasure Gardens alongside the Tissa Wewa, are three ponds, two of which have lovely bas - reliefs of Elephants playing amongst water lilies.
Close by is ISURUMINIYA ROCK TEMPLE which, from a non- religious pint of view, is considered to be the prettiest and most interesting site in Anurhadapura!!
Built around two vast boulders, the Temple is beautified by the pool in front, and embellished by Anurhadapura 's most FAMOUS rock carvings.
The BEST known is a 6th century GUpta style carving called "The LOVERS."
This is believed to depict the King's son , Saliya, with the lower caste maiden whom he loved....she lifting a finger to show her coyness and he carrying on regardless...not my words..but seems to fit??
Above the temple pool can be seen carvings of elephants frolicking in the water , and the shape of the rock is said to procuduce a 3D effect!
This is in the PALAVER style 7th century, as is the carving of a Regal male figure with his horses head looking over his right shoulder!!
Return to our Hotel for everything we need...a sundowner, a swim etc..or a rest until,dinner!!
We sort of did the itinerary backwards and we didn't stop for lunch until we were done, but no matter.
The Anuradhapura period was a period in the history of Sri Lanka of the Anuradhapura Kingdom from 377 BC to 1017 AD. The period begins when Pandukabhaya, King of Upatissa Nuwara moved the administration to Anuradhapura, becoming the kingdom's first monarch. He was the 6th Sri Lankan monarch since the arrival of Vijaya, said to be the first Sinhalese to have come to the island.
Anuradhapura was one of the world's major centers of civilization at the time. The city itself is vast and not all of it has been excavated.
It was raining and blowing hard when we set off from the hotel. Unusual for this part of the island which is in the dry zone. The rain was a bit inconvenient, but most welcome by the locals. As per usual, the signage is abysmal, so instead of ending up n Isurumuniya last, we did it first. Not that it made any difference.
Isurumuniya was a royal residence located on the Tissa Wewa. Adjacent to the buildings is a large pleasure garden that has been restored as a park. Most of the more famous carvings as Isurumuniya were actually found in the gardens.
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| Isurumuniya Temple |
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| Anton and I |
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| Elephant carving in the bedrock at the pond below the temple. |
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| You can see a indent carved just to the left of the raised trunk. People try to throw coins in the slot while making a wish. |
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| The building on the left a shrine room |
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| Inside the shrine room. |
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| Reclining Buddha in the shrine room |
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| The Lovers. The son of the King and his lover |
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| The Royal Family |
From Isurumuniya we went in search of the ticket office which was not easy to find. After trying to haggle a resident's rate and being unsuccessful, we paid full price for the ticket and proceeded.
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| US$25 is a bit of a steep price, although it is cheaper than Sigiriya which is US$30. I didn't mind paying at Anuradhapura as the site is well maintained and there is constant excavation and restoration going on, unlike Sigiiya where nothing is kept up and the iron stairs are almost falling out of the rock in some places. |
The museum was very interesting but unfortunately not all the exhibits are on show in the temporary location. Leaves us something to see next time.
One of the most interesting exhibits were the toilets, the design of which is still in use today. They also showed the disposal system below the toilet. The waste went through 3 urns before entering a filtration tank, around an ell bend into the final septic tank. Better than the system in use today in Sri Lanka and dating from the 1st century B.C. There was also a sundial, lots of jewelry including glass that rivals anything I have seen of ancient Chinese glass.
It was right around here that my shoes broke. This happened to me once before on another trip with Judith and Deanne. I had painstakingly taken them apart and reglued them to no avail. I had to do the rest of the tour in bare feet. It was painful as the pathways are all rough sand that feels like you are waking on broken glass.
VITARKA MUDRA: TEACHING. Index finger and thumb are touching and remaining fingers are pointing up.
DHAMMACHAKKA MUDRA: TURNING THE WHEEL OF DHAMMA. Both hands are in the vitarka mudra (see above) with one hand facing up and the other hand facing down. It is symbolic of the Buddha’s first sermon at the deer park in Isipathana.
VARADA MUDRA: GIVING. This can be made with ether hand, while standing or sitting. It is often seen with abhaya mudra. Frequently the opposite hand is holding the robe. The palm is facing out with the fingers pointed down. When sitting it can easily be confused with bhumisparsha mudra. In the varada mudra the thumb will be on the outside of the body.
We ended the day with a good lunch at an Indian restaurant that was packed to the rafters with locals and a nice supper at our hotel. The next day we were homeward bound with a stop in Matale at the Noritake Factory store. It was disappointing as their designs are becoming gaudy and the prices are crazy. Judith tried to buy two tiny soy sauce bowls to match her dining set. They wanted US$6 each. We just laughed. I did manage to get two coffee mugs to go with my wedding present for Michael and Rushma. More of the wedding to come.
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| One of the toilet stones. |
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| Me and Deanne. |
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| The Guard Stone. The most beautiful thing I saw that day. |
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| Judith |
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| Judith and I (notice no shoes) |
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| Beautifully carved Sinhalese lion railings |
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| The Moonstone. More famous than the Guard Stone, but not nearly as impressive in my opinion. |
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JETNAVARAMA DAGOBA -3 to 2 BC and the BUDDHIST RAILINGS.
This is the largest DAGOBA on Earth, with its crystal finial it measures a height of 500 feet, only surpassed by two of the Egyptian pyramids.
It is thought to be the TOMB of an earlier conquering CHOLA KING.
In 9AD, gold plates of Sanskrit writings were found on site during attempts to establish the structure of the foundations...of the tallest brick built structure ever created by man!
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The height and the circumference of these dagobas is identical, engineered that way to prevent them from falling apart. Remarkable when you consider the age of them. The people of this era were great engineers, being responsible not only for the dagobas but also for the water tanks that are found here and copied all around the country in later eras.
KUTTAM POKUNA, known as TWIN PONDS.
This features two "non- identical "Monks bathing pools...considered to be archaeologically perfect!
The pools are equipped with a Filtration Basin, and the spouts adorned with beautiful Makkara Gargoyles and Lion's Heads.
The pools have submarine water conduits which feed the main TANK. From this tank a distribution of conduits served the bathing and toilet needs of an estimated 5000 monks including septic tanks!
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| The larger of the Twin Ponds. The water urns at the top of the railing are solid but are said to ensure a constant supply of water. |
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| The smaller pond and the filtration tank. |
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| The naga was thought to bring luck and was another talisman for a regular water supply. |
I didn't manage to make it to the Samadhi Buddha as it was a long walk and my feet were killing me. I didn't manage to find rubber flip flops until we got back into Anuradhapura town. The Samadhi Buddha is sitting in the Samadhi or Meditation Mudra. There are 6 mudras in all:
SAMADHI MUDRA: MEDITATION Both hands are placed on the lap, one on top of the other.
ABHAYA MUDRA: GIVING FEARLESSNESS Five fingers are pointing up with the palm facing forward.
BHUMISPARSHA MUDRA: TOUCHING THE EARTH AS WITNESS. The right hand is covering the right leg with the fingers touching the ground. The left hand is on the lap with palm upturned. This position represents the incident on the night of the Buddha’s enlightenment when Mara challenged his ability to attain enlightenment. The Buddha touched the earth, calling it to be his witness.
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SAMADHI BUDDHA 3AD.
This statue made of dolomite limestoneiIs one of four seated Buddhas originally at cardinal points around an early Bo Tree shrine.
It depicts the " Serene state of Samadhi"....deep meditation.
The nose is a somewhat incongruously repaired 'nose job"! But nevertheless, a photo of this statue apparently gave some strength to Nehru, during his imprisonment by the British!
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THUPARAMA DAGOBA.
This is the oldest Dagoba in the Country and is said to contain the Collarbone Relic of Buddha.
It is a vatadage of "paddy heap " design ,with the later addition of surrounding stone built pillars and a conical roof...all very photogenic!!
The apparent bell shape is a direct result of a British restoration carried out in 1862!!
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