Another interesting interface with the Sri Lankan bureaucracy yesterday. My water bill has been showing arrears for 4 months despite the fact that I have paid up to date and have the receipts to prove it. My tuktuk man Sam usually pays the water bill for me, but he seemed scared to challenge them on the business of the erroneous arrears. So yesterday after the hairdresser and 1 1/2 hours at the iPhone repair shop, we went to the Municipal Council's accounts office.
The antiquated nature of the set up here never ceases to amaze me. First of all, it is located in an old colonial building which is actually quite lovely in an almost park like setting. No signs on the outside to tell you where to go. I wandered around and stumbled first thing on an old fashioned wicket marked Water Bill Inquiries. Eureka! Of course the woman behind the wicket who was accompanied by her young daughter playing at the adjoining wicket, did not speak English. Luckily, the young woman at another wicket who was doing nothing did, and she actually started to help.
They started digging into the bills I gave them even before I had stated the problem. This is typically Sri Lankan. Either start talking non-stop to divert the problem, or look like you are doing something even when you don't know what you are about. I stopped them and told them the problem. The two of them handed the matter off to another woman sitting behind the wickets with a computer. She ascertained that the June payment had not been recorded. The two at the front reported this to me. Then nothing. So I said, "Then adjust it." They looked surprised that something actually had to be done, but then proceeded.
They passed the omitted bill back to Computer Lady. She pssted somebody, turns out a young man, who took the bill into the next cubicle to photocopy it. Why Computer Lady could not do this is a mystery. She banged away at the computer for a while and voila, the thing was adjusted.
Then I wanted to pay my current bill along with my landlady's. Of course, I could not pay it there. I had to go upstairs. I asked them how to get there and they vaguely pointed to a set of internal stairs. So I went up the stairs. I ended up in a huge office filled with about 30 desks with people sitting at them scribbling. No-one knew what I was talking about and most of them started to titter. I saw a more mature woman in another photocopy cubicle with a man, so I went in there asking where I could pay my water bill.
Turns out the man was the office peon who was promptly dispatched to lead me to the right place. Nowhere near where I was. We went through a labyrinth of corridors and ended up at another unmarked door which was locked. He banged on the door which banging was responded to by someone who no doubt was saying they were closed. The peon persevered, probably saying there was a foreign lady there so they had better open up. They did. I just looked confused. This and being foreign usually works.
It did again in this case. The peon came in with me. Another row of wickets. The lady behind the one I was taken to was clearly miffed and stated twice that they were closed. She spoke in Sinhala but used the word closed so that I got the message. I continued to look confused, until she restarted her computer and I managed to pay the bills. I then had an epiphany of understanding saying I did not realize they were closed and that I had been at the inquiries desk. I thanked them profusely and apologized for the inconvenience which elicited a smile from the lady and a very polite escort out.
The peon led me out but on the opposite side of where I had come in. A bit of a snafu, but I ended up in an lovely courtyard flanked by the building I had been in and another old colonial building. I was back in the Raj.
I really was lucky, as I have heard that if you show up there during the proper office hours, it is a zoo.
As I stated earlier, I had spend 1 1/2 hours at the iPhone repair place. I have been having problems with my 6 year old battery, so no surprise that it had to be replaced. There is a young guy in Kandy town who repairs iPhones, so I called him on Monday night to tell him about the problem. He said he would be at his shop from 1030 to 1730 without fail. I said I would come around 1400. No problem. I show up there just before 1400. No sign of him and he is not answering his phone nor a text. A man shows up shortly after I do. He has also phoned for an appointment.
Luckily, he was interesting and we passed the next 45 minutes talking. He was a partially retired Nestle executive. He finally gave up. I persevered and finally the guy showed. By now there was quite a queue. I was first in, but Sri Lankans like to multitask so while he was dealing with my problem, he was answering the phone, talking to 3 people at once dealing with their problems and giving directions to someone to go visit some relative who is in Kandy General suffering from kidney failure. Amazing he gets anything done. Actually, he is very good and reasonably priced.
So now my old iPhone has new life. However, next week, I am going in and buying an iPhone 4s as I am sure this old girl is on her last legs. It is vital as I do not have a land line so the mobile is my only means of communication.
